A TRAJETÓRIA DO CUXÁ NO MARANHÃO NOS SÉCULOS XIX E XX:

narrativas, apropriações e patrimônio cultural

Abstract

This paper explores the history of cuxá, a typical dish from Maranhão, as an expression of culture and heritage. It analyzes the plant Hibiscus sabdariffa, known as “vinagreira”, its origin and historical use, and discusses how the dish “arroz de cuxá” was consumed in the bohemian neighborhood of São Luís in the 19th century. In the 20th century, “cuxá” gained new meanings, becoming a symbol of Maranhão’s cultural identity and gastronomic tourism. Based on periodical sources, historical texts, poems and chronicles, the article reveals the evolution of narratives surrounding the dish, from its links with the nocturnal context to its resignification as a comfort food and food heritage. Today, cuxá is a cultural representation of Maranhão, symbolizing both collective memory and national food diversity.